Wednesday, March 21, 2012
"Fresh and Tasty"
http://heymoondoggie.blogspot.com/
He's clearly following in my footsteps. (I can't believe it's been six years since I was down there!!)
Wednesday, May 20, 2009
Travel Photography
Sunday, September 10, 2006
So long, Pops...

You might recognize this sacrificial chamber from an earlier post (June 24).... It was in this very spot that I ceremonially offed Nic with the sacred Incan banana, shortly after we tamed the fearsome Incan Guard Beast. Incidentally, this time Dad and I encountered the same IGB... I´m happy to report he was as tame as ever.
The stonework at some of these ruins is pretty phenomenal... somehow the Incan engineers, with just hand tools and lots of labor, managed to chisel the stones so that they´d fit together perfectly, like a massive (a very massive) 3D jigsaw puzzle.
In most places, the seams between the rocks are so tight you can´t fit a piece of paper between them... In a few places, though, you can fit significantly larger objects.
At the Incan wall, with a handmade traditional native cap, I felt I could pass as an average Incan citizen. Just ignore the red beard and pasty white complexion.
Dad, though, was adamant that the modern t-shirt just didn´t fit, and insisted on a more authentic shot. Nic left me, my own father left me... now who will I take crazy photos with?
Friday, September 08, 2006
Colca Canyon
As you recall from the last post, we arrived at Colca Canyon at 6 AM, after 60-ish hours of travel. (If you haven´t read the last post, shame on you. Go back and catch up. Don´t worry, it´s short. I´ll wait.)

The spot we got dumped off at is known as the Cruz del Condor... a lookout point that has a family of condors nesting nearby. We, and several busloads of other tourists, were entertained for a while by the huge birds soaring above us, below us, in front of us....

...and, occasionally, even among us.

Eventually the birds floated off in search of roadkill, and we wandered along the rim of the canyon for a while, enjoying the view, enjoying the sunshine, and enjoying not sitting after 60 hours of buses.

Where we were, the canyon was ¨only¨ about a mile deep, but the views were still spectacular.

We also discovered that it is extremely difficult to take pictures of the deepest canyon in the world. Especially if you want to also be in the pictures. Below are some of our best attempts...


My feet, with the river a mile down.
Some of our clothes had gotten wet on the volcano hike, and had been sitting in plastic bags in our packs for the last 60 hours... so, with a hot sun and no one around, we took the opportunity to do a little laundry.
After several hours of wandering (and after our clothes had finished drying), we decided to head back into town. Unfortunately, the busloads of tourists, and, more importantly, the buses, were nowhere to be found. We wandered along the road back to the Cruz del Condor (the most popular tourist stop) and waited for a while. Eventually some park rangers came along in a van and told us that a bus would be coming by... in about 5 hours. Then they were kind enough to give us a lift back to town. Ah, the life of a south american backpacker... sometimes things work out great. Not always, but sometimes.
What´s that smell?
After finishing with internet, we decided to stop and investigate bus schedules. Our next move was going to be to head up to Peru.... it turned out the perfect bus was leaving in roughly 45 minutes. We rushed back, packed, grabbed a takeout pizza for dinner, and made our bus. No time for a shower, though.
Check out a map of Chile. It´s really, really long. And we taking a bus all the way to Peru. Incidentally, the entire northern section of Chile is occupied by the Atacama Desert, the driest desert in the world. In this desert, there are placed where rainfall has never been recorded. Ever. After our bus ride, it´s not hard to imagine.
Our volcano trip was on a Tuesday. We caught our bus that evening, and rode the bus all night. In the morning we changed buses. We rode the same bus all day Wednesday, wednesday night, and most of Thursday. Then we got a taxi across the Chile-Peru border. Time for a break? Nope. We caught an 8-hour bus that pulled into Arequipa, Peru at midnight. Rather than calling it quits and getting a hostel, like any sane travelers would, we decided to catch the 1 AM bus for Colca Canyon, our real destination.
And so, at 6 AM on Friday, we arrived at the fabled Colca Canyon. We had been in a bus, taxi, or bus terminal for almost 60 hours. Most of our bus ride had been through a baking desert. Immediately prior to our bus ride, we had climbed a mountain. Where we had bathed ourselves in toxic fumes. The moral of the story? We really, really needed a shower. Really.
Monday, September 04, 2006
Fire and Ice... very nice.
This, my friends, is Volcan Villarrica, seen at sunset. It´s an active volcano, constantly spouting smoke and burping up magma.
And this is myself and my intrepid father, in the act of climbing said volcano.
Crazy? Probably. Fun? Absolutely.
After a full day of slogging uphill, we made it to the smoking, steaming crater at the top (the caldera, for all you budding volcanologists out there). We even climbed down into the caldera, for a better view of the red-hot lava that kept spurting up.
We didn´t stay too long, though... there really were a ton of toxic fumes up there. Every so often you´d get a strong whiff of hot gases belching up from the crater... I´m pretty sure every breath of that stuff took a month or so off of my lifespan.

Going down was great, too... we donned helmets and tough waterproof pants, packed all our loose gear into our packs, and slid down the mountain on our butts. Not quite as awesome as snowboarding, but a heck of a lot better than walking.
Sunday, August 27, 2006
Shiver me timbers

We were able to thaw out, though, thanks in part to the copious quantities of methane gas emanating from the boxcars of cattle at the back of the boat:
It was a pretty cool trip, though. There was plenty of action to keep us entertained...
We got to invade the bridge and bug the skipper with lots of questions... where are we, where are we going next, how fast are we getting there, are we going to hit that other ship, when do we get to see dolphins.... and most importantly... when´s lunch?
I climbed up to the crow´s nest to check out the view. I´m not really sure I was supposed to be up there, but hey, it wasn´t locked or anything. I was tempted to replace the Chilean flag with the Jolly Roger (you know... the skull and crossbones pirate flag), but I couldn´t figure out how to make one. Besides, I´d had enough fun with the Argentinian authorities... no need to get the Chileans involved.
The best part of the trip was the coffee-in-bed room service... delivered with a smile by Mr. Early Riser himself: dear old Dad. He saw more sunrises that trip than anyone else on board. I saw them too... for a few seconds. Out the porthole. From my bunk. Right after Mr. Cheerful woke me up to see them. Then I went back to sleep for another couple of hours. Hey, we were recovering from the brutal Patagonian winter, remember? 
We also had fun with Dad´s GPS unit... for example, we figured out exactly which heading to take if we felt like a 6,873-mile swim north to Crescent City.
And of course, the main attraction was the pictures-don´t-do-it-justice scenery:
Lots of rugged mountains, snow-capped peaks, and cool islands...
...and plenty of spectacular sunrises and sunsets.
Yo ho, yo ho, a pirate´s life for me.
Saturday, August 26, 2006
We´re baaaaack...
We spent some time in Torres del Paine National Park, in Chile... about as close to Antarctica as we could get on this trip.
Cloudy, too, which interfered with some of our sightseeing... there were still plenty of spectacular views, though. 
Dad´s new GPS wasn´t much help in deciding our course, as you can see. (Too cold to swim.)
In the end, we decided to just chill:

Except... we were nowhere near the tropics. And our boat wasn´t exactly a cruise ship... in fact, we shared it with several boxcars crammed full of cattle.
Tuesday, August 15, 2006
Ice, Ice, Baby
Our first excursion, upon arrival, was to visit none other than the Perito Moreno glacier... another one of those top-ten, don´t-miss-it spots in South America. And it´s true... you don´t want to miss it. Absolutely stunning... I´ll let the photos speak for themselves:
The pictures don´t do it justice... keep in mind that these towering ice spires are over 150 feet tall. And they occasionally came crashing down. Pretty cool.







